The answer is yes, yes it can be done.
You asked if it could be done, not if it could be done _easily_ after all.
Here's copy protection 101:
A DOS disk uses a standard MFM sync signal, 0x44A9. The signal tells the machine to start reading data, because it's all data after that signal.
A copy protected disk will usually use a special copy protection track (a very simple mechanism might just have a block marked "deleted" or with an invalid checksum). This track will usually use a different sync signal, one which only the game knows to expect: for instance, 0xA9A9. The AmigaDOS won't find a signal and gives "Read/Write Error". The game, however, knows that 0xA9A9 is the sync signal on this track and so can read the data. Quite often the track will be written "weak" so that it reads back differently every time. Also the sector may be longer than a normal one.
Following so far? Good.
Some games, for example Psygnosis games, use a custom sync signal throughout the whole disk. Other games will use a DOS disk - complete with disk label - except for the protection track, so it'll even have a disk icon on Workbench.
So, can you correct your disk?
If the corrupt track is on a weak track, forget it. You need very expensive stuff to write them.
If the corrupt track is on an AmigaDOS track (there may or may not be any on XJ220), then just use a simple imager to write the correct track. Job's a good'un. Track 159, incidentally, is the track 79 on side 2.
If the corrupt track is on a protected track, you need to look at the RawDIC file to work out what the sync signal is and the sector length and then use RawDIC. I don't know if you can write it back with RawDIC, but you can with a Catweasel. You can do anything with a catweasel except weak tracks.
Right, that all understood?
Now you can pretty much forget all that because the problem isn't just the disk, it's your drive, it's slightly out of alignment with the disk. Sometimes a drive will be perfect for 99% of disks but only just, and when a disk is slightly out in the other direction, it all breaks down.
Your best bet is to get hold of a disk copier like Cyclone, or X-Copy Pro or something, and just copy the disk using your A4000 which can read it fine. If it were just the disk that were bad, the 4000 wouldn't read it. If copying the disk works, you could copy the disk to another disk, and then copy that copy back to the original again. The alignment will now be with your A4000 drive rather than the disk duplicator that originally made it.
Hope that helps a little.
