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[Retrofan]

Thanks. Indeed I had bought previously a socket for it, but was thinking about buying the 060. I've just bought an MC 68060RC50, 71E41J .
I get perfect soldering points with my JBC soldering iron, but always has been difficult to desolder things. Not sure if the desoldering iron will have enought with 30w or perhaps must search only for 40w...

Do you like my new avatar?
Why doesn't everybody have a picture as avatar?:
1) Go to Google and search for something you like as "Images"
2) Save the one you like in your PC
3) Go to User Cp - Edit Avatar - Upload photo from your computer- Select it. And that's all!

[stachu100]

@retrofan,

If you would like to un-solder the CPU and put CPU socket by your own - that's ok, it's your card.

But If you are interested to sell this card to me as it is now - I'm ready to buy it until it's still in quite good mechanical condition.
If you really want to have Blizzard 1260 060@80MHz no problem, I have one for sale with proper RAM working @80MHz.
I can install even proper CPU cooling which can be used in desktop case with trapdoor closed.

If you are interested please send me a PM.

[Retrofan]

PMs sent.

Although what everybody has to know is that I got my Blizzard working for only 211€ at Ebay...

[stachu100]

PM replied :-)

[Retrofan]

Nice videos you have on Youtube. Perhaps you could explain in a thread how to put that fan in the Blizzard without cables...

[stachu100]

Well, as it is very simple and freely available to watch by everyone I never though to create special post only for that...

[Retrofan]

Seems a very good idea to keep the trapdoor closed. Perhaps you could put a couple of photos to see it well...

[stachu100]

Originally Posted by Retrofan

Seems a very good idea to keep the trapdoor closed. Perhaps you could put a couple of photos to see it well...

ok, why not?

Everything can be found here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/stacho10...rd126006080MHz#

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqfO7VA5-0A

[Retrofan]

Thanks. I believe people will like them!

[Retrofan]

I've bought a good desoldering iron from JBC to take out the CPU. It has 25 watts:

[AppleHammer]

Hmmm, looks like a cheap and cheerful desoldering tool. A basic soldering iron with an attachment that allows you to manually create a suction effect at the tip.

Will it be any good? I don't know to be honest. You'll have to try it out and let me know!
25W is probably powerful enough, though you may need to leave the iron on the pin for a good few seconds to give it time to fully melt all the solder. Make sure you've already squashed that little balloon contraption though, because otherwise you'll be blowing the molten solder up the joint rather than sucking it from the joint. You will probably have to repeat the process multiple times before the pin is fully desoldered.

TIP:

Before you attempt to desolder the pins, try heating the pin up with the iron and applying some solder first. This might seem a bit of a strange thing to do, but a fresh solder joint is easier to desolder than an old one. Try this on one or two pins first, just to see what kind of results you get.
After you've tried to desolder a pin, and you think you've got all the solder out, allow it to cool and then try to move the desoldered pin around with a pointed tool. If the pin moves freely in its hole then you've properly desoldered it. It's important that you do this step because with a multi-layer board it can look like the pin has desoldered when in fact it is still making a mechanical joint on one of the other layers (usually the top layer). If you try to pull the component free when there is still a mechanical joint on one of the layers then you can damage the board. Always make sure the pin can be moved about freely and without resistance before you move on to the next pin.

I hope this helps.

Apple Hammer

[Retrofan]

Thank you very much for the information, although I've already soldered and desoldered some things (not many).

I have to say I bought the first good soldering iron around 7 months ago when I began to get into the Commodore 64 scene: I bought a broken C64 to use it as a retro-keyboard for my PC and as it felt so sorry for it, I began to search forums and finally changed around 5 chips to repair it (it was the one with less possibilities to be the culprit). Finally I got it working perfect. That's the way I started soldering chips.

Yes, it's true that sometimes it seems you can't desolder some things, mostly when they have an small welding spot, and then it's better to add some tin.
Till now I was desoldering things with a soldering iron and a tin sucker, but wasn't very well sometimes. A tin sucker (is that the name?) isn't the best thing, and my soldering iron has 10 watts only! It's perfect to solder small points with a thin tin wire. I get soldering points as a chinese.

You're right: what I've bought is a soldering iron (25w) and the complement for it to desolder. I've already tried it with an old capacitor and it taked all the soldered tin and I taked it out without any opposition, so I think it's the better solution. That's what the guy who sold it to me said too (it's an electronic repair service). He said this was what they were using most.

I read too that it's better to make a circular movement around the pin to desolder before suckering it.
I have to say that it has a tip with an small hole, perfect for small pins.

To desolder it, I will wait to receive the socket first:

because perhaps I find something different while I wait for it to arrive...
By the way, what was finally broken in your PPC? I guess... was it the oscillator?

[delshay]

Originally Posted by Retrofan

Thank you very much for the information, although I've already soldered and desoldered some things (not many).

I have to say I bought the first good soldering iron around 7 months ago when I began to get into the Commodore 64 scene: I bought a broken C64 to use it as a retro-keyboard for my PC and as it felt so sorry for it, I began to search forums and finally changed around 5 chips to repair it (it was the one with less possibilities to be the culprit). Finally I got it working perfect. That's the way I started soldering chips.

Yes, it's true that sometimes it seems you can't desolder some things, mostly when they have an small welding spot, and then it's better to add some tin.
Till now I was desoldering things with a soldering iron and a tin sucker, but wasn't very well sometimes. A tin sucker (is that the name?) isn't the best thing, and my soldering iron has 10 watts only! It's perfect to solder small points with a thin tin wire. I get soldering points as a chinese.

You're right: what I've bought is a soldering iron (25w) and the complement for it to desolder. I've already tried it with an old capacitor and it taked all the soldered tin and I taked it out without any opposition, so I think it's the better solution. That's what the guy who sold it to me said too (it's an electronic repair service). He said this was what they were using most.

I read too that it's better to make a circular movement around the pin to desolder before suckering it.
I have to say that it has a tip with an small hole, perfect for small pins.

To desolder it, I will wait to receive the socket first:

because perhaps I find something different while I wait for it to arrive...
By the way, what was finally broken in your PPC? I guess... was it the oscillator?

im surprised no one hear has given you any good advice,it looks like their want you to destroy the card.

using that type of iron is ok, but requires a very very high level of skill which i don`t think you have.

i suggest take it to a local shop and have it desolder. ( high recommendation ).

i think you are capable of soldering in the socket/CPU.

that socket is not correct,when it arrives you have to move some of the pins, you will know which ones as it will not fit on the PCB.

there are a few missing pins you may have to get the extra missing pins from another socket.

from my point of veiw i would avoid 060 socket,if have the best mask there is no need for a socket.

060 sockets sometimes has problems,this is why any of my future projects does not have a 060 socket.

[AppleHammer]

Hi Retrofan,

Apologies if my advice sounded a little bit condescending, I wasn't sure how much experience (if any) you had with soldering/desoldering.

Originally Posted by Retrofan

By the way, what was finally broken in your PPC? I guess... was it the oscillator?

I'm not sure what's broken on my PPC card yet actually. Though, unfortunately, I can tell you that it's definitely not the oscillators because I tested them with my DSO and they're both outputting a nice, strong, oscillating signal
I also checked some basic voltages around the board and everything I tested seemed to be fine.
That's as far as I've been able to go for the moment because I'm very busy with exams and assignments right now. It's a busy time of year for academics! As soon as my exams are over I intend to revisit this issue, and I'll probably wear my "Failure is not an option" T-Shirt so that by hook or by crook, I'll have to get it working! I might end up having to remove the 68K CPU like you ;-)

Originally Posted by delshay

i would avoid 060 socket,if have the best mask there is no need for a socket.

With regard to Delshay's advice, I respect his opinion about the use of a CPU socket but I personally disagree. I think that if you're going to go to the trouble of removing the CPU then you may as well fit a socket to aid future removals/replacements. Especially as there will be a limit to the amount of times you can rework the PCB before it starts to show signs of permanent damage.

I'm not sure why Delshay is saying that the socket you've shown is the wrong one. I'll have to bow to his experience on that one because I personally have very little experience with 68060 CPUs and absolutely no experience with your particular card. However, I can tell you that the socket you've shown is correct for a 68060 CPU. Perhaps the problem is with the PCB layout of your card. But, no problem, if you're careful you can just move the pins around to suit the PCB. Check it when it arrives.

Originally Posted by delshay

im surprised no one hear has given you any good advice,it looks like their want you to destroy the card.

I can assure you that nobody here wants you to destroy your card. We have tried to make you aware that it is a very difficult procedure to remove the CPU, and Delshay is correct that it should be done by someone who has plenty of experience. However, if you insist on having a go yourself I think we have given you some good advice and the most important advice of all is to be careful and take your time. Try desoldering just a couple of pins first to see whether you're having any success or not. If you find that you were able to desolder the pins okay, testing them using the method I described, then you can proceed with the rest of the pins. If you have any difficulty with the first couple of pins then you still have the option of asking a more experienced person to do the job instead.

Of course, it could very well be that the CPU is not even at fault. But the only way you can find out without the use of professional test equipment is to replace it with another one.

.

[Retrofan]

Thanks to both of you for the advice. About the socket, I asked the seller too because I wasn't sure if it was the right one with so many holes on it, but he told me it was the one for it. I'll see when it arrives.
About putting the socket, I will do it because I believe it's the best to do if finally it isn't the problem, so I can put or take it out easily.
I have to tell in the past I have had some situations in which I had no good possibilities of making something: repairing the C64 reading forums, repairing a mantle clock from my father that the watchmaker said he coudn't repair talking with a guy in USA and changing some pieces, or mounting a complete Volkswagen Beetle engine piece by piece reading books and watching videos... now it has 5.000 kms

For sure I will try to change it, and I believe won't be very difficult. I'm not saying I will repair it; only that will change the piece right. Of course, if I see I can't I will send it to an electrician.

I have to say I have faith in the possibilities to solve the problem changing the clock oscillator around 5%, and 15% changing the CPU. Not much more...